Method of sewing elastic stitches



Dec. 7, 1965 P. L. JAMES 3,221,689

METHOD OF SEWING ELASTIC STITCHES Filed Nov. 24, 1961 1 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 BY aim,

Dec. 7, 1965 Filed NOV. 24 '1961 P. L. JAMES METHOD OF SEWING ELASTIC STITGHES 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

M eaJams' BY Mel/wa Dec. 7, 1965 P. L. JAMES 3,221,689

METHOD OF SEWING ELAST IC STITCHES Filed Nov. 24 1961 I; Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR.

jaullea United States Patent f 3,221,689 METHOD OF SEWING ELASTIC STITCHES Paul Leo James, 2320 N. Cleveland Ave., Chicago 14, Ill. Filed Nov. 24, 1961, Ser. No. 154,492 2 Claims. (Cl. 112-262) This invention relates to the sewing arts and, in par ticular, to improved apparatus for and method of sewing a unique stitch, and to improved articles utilizing the stitch.

The objects of the present invention are directed toward the provision of improved sewn articles and improved apparatus for and method of making such articles having stitching which imparts unusual functional characteristics to the articles.

The improved apparatus employed in achieving the objects of this invention is advantageously utilized in connection with standardautomatically or manually controlled sewing machines, and is especially desirably utilized in automatically acting zig-zag sewing machines. Briefly, the apparatus comprises a presser foot and feed dog or needle plate each provided with means which coact and cooperate with a reciprocating needle to enable the attainment of stitching possessing unique and marked resiliency properties. The individual stitches or components of the stitching are desirably angularly disposed one to the other in a substantially zig-zag pattern, and the fabric contiguous to the components is puckered or gathered thereabout and therewithin while maintaining an appearance in the thus puckered or gathered fabric of lying substantially in the same plane as the areas of the fabric non-contiguous to the stitching. The elasticity or resiliency of the stitching is most advantageously retained by securing or anchoring in the fabric, in any manner known in the art, a portion of at least two components of the stitching.

The outstanding characteristics of the stitching of the present invention can -be utilized with advantage in numerous and varied ways. In garments, such as blouses for example, where conformity of certain portions thereof to the body, particularly the waist regions, is desirable, the stitching of this invention achieves highly satisfactory results. The unusual stretchability and contractability of the stitching is suggestive of that of elastic and permits the attainment of the desired conforming effect.

In its applicability to the seaming of garments, the stitching has particularly important advantages in the construction of such sewn articles as trousers. Of especial significance in this connection is the ability, utilizing this invention, to produce trousers wherein the outer longitudinal seam along the leg covering portions thereof is eliminated. This result is made possible largely by the resiliency and strength of the stitching produced in accordance with this invention, and provides, among other considerations, economic benefits heretofore unattainable with conventional methods of constructing trousers.

These and other advantages will become evident after considering the description hereinafter set forth in conjunction with the drawings annexed hereto wherein:

FIG. 1 is a front view in elevation of an automatically controlled sewing machine having utility for the purposes of this invention;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary side view in elevation of the machine illustrated in FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a rear view in elevation of the portion of the machine illustrated in FIG. 2;

FIG. 4 is an enlarged view in perspective of the presser foot as seen from above; t

foot as seen from below;

3,221,689 Patented Dec. 7, 1965 "ice ling the effect of a reciprocating needle on the fabric during the descending phase of the cycle of the needle;

FIG. 9 is a view similar to that of FIG. 8 illustrating the effect of a reciprocating needle on the fabric during the ascending phase of the cycle of the needle;

FIG. 10 is a plan view of a section of fabric illustrating the stitching;

FIG. 11 is an enlarged plan view of the section of fabric illustrated in FIG. 10;

FIG. 12 is a view in perspective of trousers constructed in accordance with the practice of this invention;

FIG. 13 is a side view in elevation of the left panel of the trousers illustrated in FIG. 12;

FIG. 14 is a side view in elevation of the panel illustrated in FIG. 13 after stitching;

FIG. 15 is a view in perspective of a leg covering portion of the trousers reversed to show the stitching;

FIG. 16 is a view in perspective of the leg covering portion of the trousers shown in FIG. 15 as it would be worn.

Referring now in particular to FIG. 1 of the drawings, a typical automatically controlled machine having utility for the purposes of this invention is designated at 10. Desirably the machine is of a conventional automatically acting zig-zag type and is equipped with a plurality of cams coupled selectively to a camshaft for controlling the width of the stitch, the position of the stitch, the length of the stitch, and the variation of the stitch width, the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 1, being provided with a thread tension control dial 11, a stitch length regulating dial 12, a zig-zag width control lever 13, and a stitch compensating control dial 14. All are numerically calibrated for simplicity and accuracy in adjustment. The machine 10, as clearly illustrated in FIG. 2, further is conventionally provided with a clamp 15 adapted to receive a reciprocating needle 16 which is held securely in the clamp 15 by means of a thumb screw 17. Proximal to the needle assembly, there is provided a presser foot bar 18 adapted to engage with the arm or shank portion 19 of a presser foot 20. The presser foot 20 is retained in position on the presser foot bar 18 with a thumb screw 21, and its vertical movement generally is controlled by a lever 22.

Adjacent the needle 16 and the presser foot 20 there may be conveniently provided a needle or feed dog plate 23 which in typical automatic machines forms a continuous, smooth, horizontal surface with the bed plate 4 for slidably supporting fabric to be stitched by the needle 16. The embodiment of the feed dog plate 23 shown is only one of many varieties having utility for the purposes of this invention, and it is to be understood that the description of the invention with reference thereto is by way of illustration and not limitation.

The slotted areas 25, 26 and 27 of the feed dog plate 23 are each advantageously constructed to perform a desired stitching operation with the standard automatic machine 10. Slotted area 25, for example, is designed for use in connection with a straight stitch presser foot. Area 26 is utilized in combination with a rufiling presser foot. Slotted area 27 is especially desirably provided with features which is combination with presser foot 20 are capable of producing the unique stitching to which this invention in part is directed. The slots in the various areas are adapted to permit contact of a feed dog, not shown, with fabric being stitched. The feed dog is desirably associated with a stepping mechanism actuated by the reciprocating needle 16 which in cooperation with the oscillating movement of the presser foot 20 advances fabric into the stitching arena 28 of the presser foot 20.

Referring now more specifically to FIGS. 4 and 5, the presser foot 20 is especially desirably of the type that is utilized in a conventional zig-zag stitching operation. The design aspects of the presser foot 20 and the means employed for attaching it to arm or shank 19 may vary considerably. In the embodiment illustrated, the presser foot 20 is desirably pivotally connected to the shank 19 by means of a pin 29. The stitching arena 28 is defined by a transversely disposed opening 30, While a longitudinally disposed slot 31 enables the machine operator to view the stitching as it is formed. The presser foot 20 may be conveniently fabricated of metal, or, in accordance with more recent practice, of a substantially transparent plastic.

The objectives to which this invention are directed are most advantageously achieved when the presser foot 20 and slotted area 27 of the feed dog plate 23 are provided with features which coact and cooperate with the needle 16 in a unique manner. One of these features is desirably positioned in the undersurface 32 of the presser foot 29 and preferably takes the form of a channel or groove 33 extending from the opening 30 to a point proximal to the rear of the presser foot 20. The groove 33 is desirably substantially rectangular in configuration, the Width thereof being from about inch to about inch and especially desirably of the order of approximately 21 inch. The depth, which constitutes the other most significant dimension of the groove 33, advantageously may range from about Ms inch to about inch, with particularly desirable results being obtained with a groove depth of approximately inch.

The undersurface 32 of the presser foot 20 is further advantageously provided with grooved or dished areas 34 and 35 which desirably occupy a position adjacent the ends of the opening 30 defining the stitching arena 28. The straight-line distance between the furthermost points of the are described by the dished areas 34 and 35 is preferably in the range of about to about inch, with approximately A inch being especially preferred. The greatest depth of the dished areas 34 and 35 preferably substantially corresponds to that of the groove 33, that is, in the range A; to inch, with approximately [a2 inch being especially desired.

Referring now to the feed dog plate 23 illustrated in FIGS. 6 and 7, the area 27 thereof is provided with an opening 36 substantially corresponding in size, and adapted to register with, opening 39 in presser foot 20. Of particular importance in achieving the objectives of this invention, area 27 further is most advantageously provided with a channel or groove 37 having substantially the same dimensions as groove 33 in the presser foot 20. The groove 37 is adapted to lie beneath the groove 33, and coacts therewith to achieve the stitchinghereinafter described.

Turning now to the operation of the complementary portions of the presser foot 20 and the area 27 of the feed dog plate 23, and with specific reference to FIGS. 8 and 9, fabric 38, as it is advanced into the stitching arena 28, is pierced by the needle 16 on the downstroke thereof. Contact of the needle 16 with the fabric 38 has the effect of depressing the latter, forcing it into the groove 37 of the feed dog plate 23. This pulling or drawing action of the needle 16 results in a gathering of the fabric 38 through the dished areas 34and 35 of the presser foot 20 and along the longitudinal axis of the groove 37. This gathering effect is focused about the needle 16 and within the stitching arena 28. correspondingly, on the upstroke of the needle 16, the frictional engagement thereof with the fabric 38 is sufficient in degree to cause the fabric 38 to be uplifted or drawn into the groove 33 of the presser foot 20,, and, in a manner substantially similar to the 4 action of the needle 16 on the downstroke, results in a gathering of the fabric 38 about the needle 16 and within the stitching arena 28. The stitch thus formed entraps a portion of the thus gathered fabric imparting a puckered effect thereto.

As each successive stitch is formed by the cooperative action of the needle 16, the presser foot 20, and the area 27 of the feed dog plate 23, stitching is produced which is characterized by having unusual resiliency suggestive of the properties of elastic. The stitching has substantially a zig-zag configuration, as illustrated in FIGS. 9 and 10. It is noteworthy, in this same regard, that the areas of the fabric contiguous to the stitching retain an appearance of lying in substantially the same plane as areas of the fabric non-contiguous to the fabric. The term stitch as used herein means a single complete pass or motion of a needle and shuttle carrying the thread through the fabric from one point of entry to the next successive point of entry. The term stitching as used herein means a series or line of stitches as thus produced.

In achieving the optimum resilient characteristics of the stitching produced in accordance with the practice of this invention, it is desirable to regulate the length and width of the stitches. To this end, it has been discovered that especially advantageous results are attained with a stitch having a length approximately /3 to /2 greater than its width. It is to be understood, however, that these ratios may be varied in accordance with the results desired, and that the ratios set forth herein represent a particularly preferred embodiment given by way of illustration and not limitation. Referring to FIG. 11, the length of the stitch is that distance from point A to point B, or, stated differently, that distance between two successive points of entry of the needle into the fabric. The width of the stitch is the distance C between two parallel lines, D and E, as shown in FIG. 11, drawn along the length of the stitch and through two successive points of entry of the needle into the fabric, that is, points A and B. The tension on the thread utilized in making the stitches is desirably maintained at normal levels, although it may be varied somewhat.

The dimensions of the stitch and the tension on the thread may be conveniently regulated by suitable control means provided on standard automatically controlled sewing machines. In the typical embodiment of such a machine 10 illustrated in FIG. 1, the length of the stitch may be regulated by dial 12; the stitch width correspondingly may be regulated by suitable adjustment of lever 13 and compensator 14. Thread tension, in the machine 10 as illustrated, is controlled by the dial 11.

The resilient properties of the stitching are advantageously maintained by securing or anchoring a portion of at least two components of the stitching to the fabric asvat 39 and 40. This prevents slippage of the thread along the stitching and preserves the resilient, puckered effect. The stitching may be utilized with advantage in connection with substantially any fabric, whether closely or loosely woven, or light or heavy in Weight.

As hereinabove indicated, the stitch produced with the apparatus of this invention has important advantages in the construction of articles of clothing. One such article wherein the stitch may be employed to attain highly desirable results is trousers. conventionally such garments are constructed from two panels joined to each other by a centrally disposed seam, each of the panels in turn comprising a front and a rear segment joined to each other by a vertical inner and outer seam along the leg covering portions of the trousers. The waistline portions, the lower torso covering portions and the crotch area also contain seams and stitching to accomplish specific effects well known in the art.

I have discovered that, by employing the principles of this invention, trousers can be constructed which will eliminate by approximately 15% the amount of cutting and sewing necessary to construct-trousers in accordance with conventional practices. Moreover, these important advantages are realized with a concomitant significant savings in fabric of the order of approximately one square foot in trousers having, for example, the size designation, 32 x 32.

An embodiment of trousers constructed in accordance with the practice of this invention is illustrated in FIG. 12 and is designated at 41. It will be observed that the trousers 41 do not have an outer vertical seam along the leg covering portions thereof. This, as indicated hereinabove, is largely due to the fact that the stitching of this invention is employed in the construction of the trousers. The unusual resiliency of my stitching enables it to counteract those forces which place a strain on the trousers and which tend to distort the normal contours thereof. Conventional stitching, due to its relatively rigid, non-resilient character, manifests no such compensating effects, and, therefore, a satisfactory pair of trousers having an inner seam and no corresponding outer seam has not, heretofore, been fabricated.

Essentially the trousers 41 comprise two panels, a right panel 42 and a left panel 43, as they would be worn, each constituting a seamless unit, as illustrated in FIG. 13. The panels are suitably cut along the crotch line 44 and rear line 45 to conform the fabric to the contours of the body. Each of the panels is folded in a manner to bring the edges 46 and 47 of the leg covering portions 48 and 49 thereof into juxtaposed relation. The edges 46 and 47 are then advantageously stitched in accordance with the practice of this invention to provide an inner vertical seam 50. The thus seamed panels 42 and 43 are then joined to each other along the crotch line and rear line by seams desirably utilizing the stitch of this invention. The trousers 41 may then be finished by providing seams and stitching in the fly, lower torso areas, and the waist portions, again advantageously using the stitch hereinabove described.

The unique resilient characteristics of the stitching employed in the construction of the trousers 41 enables not only the elimination of the outer vertical seam along the leg covering portions but, in addition, obviates the need for unusual fullness, especially in the seat of the trousers, to provide a comfortable fit. Also, the stitching permits the trousers 41 to comfortably conform to the waist and lower torso regions of the body of the wearer thereby creating an over all neat, slimming effect. Of added significance to the appearance of the trousers 41 is the ability, in striped or patterned fabrics, to provide uniformity or continuity in design throughout the fabric of which each panel of the trousers is cut, especially along the outer areas of the leg covering portions thereof. Heretofore, this effect has been extremely difficult to achieve in the construction of trousers other than, perhaps, in the most carefully hand tailored garment.

While for the purpose of illustrating and describing my invention certain specific embodiments have been shown, it is to be understood that modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit of the invention and scope of the appended claims.

What I claim as new and desire to protect by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A method of stitching fabric comprising freely supporting the fabric in the area traversed by a needle to enable the needle to depress and raise the fabric during stitching to cause gathering of the fabric contiguous and adjacent to the needle, placing the components of the stitching in the thus depressed and raised fabric with the needle in a manner to impart a substantially zig-zag pattern to the stitching and further to cause substantially simultaneous lateral and longitudinal gathering of the freely supported fabric within and about the stitching, the thus formed stitching encompassing a wide area of the freely supported fabric to impart resiliency to the stitching, and anchoring a portion of at least two substantially spaced components of the stitching in the fabric.

2. The method of claim 1 characterized in that the adjacent components of the stitching are disposed in the fabric in such a manner that the length of each component is about /3 to about /2 greater than the width thereof, the length and width of each component being determined as described.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 707,556 8/ 1902 Dane 2227 2,079,398 5/1937 Dean 2227 2,153,836 4/ 1939 Howland 112-264 2,264,958 12/ 1941 Smith 2227 2,444,467 7/1948 Popper 112-426 2,448,287 8/1948 Abrams 112132 2,892,426 6/1959 Doster 1l22 2,955,552 10/ 1960 McGahee 11 2-2 2,977,913 4/ 196 1 Schenkengle 112264 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

THOMAS J. HICKEY, ROBERT V. SLOAN,

Examiners. 

1. A METHOD OF STITCHING FABRIC COMPRISING FREELY SUPPORTING THE FABRIC IN THE AREA TRAVERSED BY A NEEDLE TO ENABLE THE NEEDLE TO DEPRESS AND RAISE THE FABRIC DURING STITCHING TO CAUSE GATHERING OF THE FABRIC CONTIGUOUS OF THE ADJACENT TO THE NEEDLE, PLACING THE COMPONENTS OF THE STITCHING IN THE THUS DEPRESSED AND RAISED FABRIC WITH THE NEEDLE IN A MANNER TO IMPART A SUBSTANTIALLY ZIG-ZAG PATTERN TO THE STITCHING AND FURTHER TO CAUSE SUBSTANTIALLY SIMULTANEOUS LATERAL AND LONGITUDINAL GATHERING OF THE FREELY SUPPORTED FABRIC WITHIN AND ABOUT THE STITCHING THE THUS FORMED STITCHING ENCOMPASSED A WIDE AREA OF THE FREELY SUPPORTED FABRIC TO IMPART RESILIENCY TO THE STITCHING, AND ANCHORING A PORTION OF AT LEAST TWO SUBSTANTIALLY SPACED COMPONENTS OF THE STITCHING IN THE FABRIC. 